Sitka, AK

When Memorial Day weekend approached, I felt as though I had to take advantage of the long weekend and go somewhere.  I couldn't go far on three days, so I decided on Sitka.  You can get to Sitka from Juneau in 4.5 hours on the fast ferry.  It leaves at 0800 from Juneau, arrives at 1230 in Sitka, departs Sitka at 1330 and arrives in Juneau at 1800.  I left on a Saturday and came back Monday.

For this trip it was just me and Millie.  Brad got a job as a Security Officer and had to work every weekend in May.  I actually wanted to go sans doggie, but I couldn't leave her at home because Brad was working 10 hour days and she couldn't be left alone for that long.  Putting her in a kennel raised so many other issues that it seemed almost easier to just bring her with me.  Finding pet-friendly lodging in Sitka is pretty tough tho.  There's hardly any hotels there that allow dogs, and the ones that do charge an arm and a leg.  Super 8 wanted something in the area of $150 a night.  Ridiculous.  So I opted for camping. 

I didn't make this decision to camp lightly.  I had a few concerns.  First, there was no way I could get the 3 man tent we had up by myself (I practiced).  Second, Sitka has grizzlies.  Third, it could be cold and rainy (forecast called for rain).  Fourth, Millie could tear down my tent.  And the list goes on....  Once at the Starrigavan Campsite though, I did manage to get help from the site host to put up the tent.  The host also informed me that there had not been any bear sightings there yet, so that was a relief.  The weather was a tad gloomy, but not so bad that it was a problem.  However, it did get pretty cold at night and I didn't dress warmly enough thinking it wouldn't get that much colder.  Millie must have thought it was cold too because she ended up sleeping on me or on my airmattress.  I spent most of the night curled up in a fetal position to stay warm, and also because I only had about two-thirds of a 28"x72" mattress.  My butt cheeks were a bit cramped from holding that position for so long.  I must've gotten some sleep though, because I woke up fairly refreshed. 

I had roughly 2 full days, most of which was overcast.  It didn't give me a good impression of Sitka, but I could see that it was about as beautiful as Juneau, in my opinion.  Most think Sitka is the most beautiful of all the Alaska towns, but I'm not so sure.  It does not support as much tourism though, which helps.  I also expected to see more Russian culture and architecture since it was previously a Russian colony and the purchase of Alaska from Russia took place here.  The town does embrace it's history, however.  Castle Hill gives some history about the exchange of land between Russia and US.  I didn't make it to the Sitka Historical museum but no doubt it does too. 

Another part of Sitka's history are the native Alaskans.  Little of their culture is left today after the arrival of Russians and Americans, but some of it can be seen at the Sheldon Jackson museum.  It's a peak into the life of an Eskimo.  The Sitka National Historical Park is the oldest National Park in Alaska, and it commemorates the largest conflict held between the Europeans and Native Alaskans.  There are a few trails around the park, and many totem poles.   

Sitka also offers many wildlife viewing opportunities.  There is a whale park from where you can view whales in October, November, and March.  The campground I stayed in had the Estuary Trail from which you could do bird watching.  Then there is the Alaska Raptor Center where hurt Eagles are cared for and trained to re-enter the wild.

In addition to the cultural attractions, there are some nice trails around Sitka.  Most are not very long, but are of moderate difficulty.  Since I had Millie with me, I had to spend most of my time outdoors and on the trails.  I was pleasantly surprised to see how well maintained the trails were compared to Juneau's, which are often muddy and wet.  I went on several trails - Thimbleberry/Heart Lake Trail, Forest & Muskegs Trail, Mosquito Cove Trail, and Herring Cove Trail.  Herring Cove Trail was my favorite since there are couple of nice waterfalls along the way. 

Since I did so much walking the first and second day there, I was pretty beat by the time 5pm came around on the 2nd day.  It felt a bit chillier then too, or maybe I was just tired.  In any case, I had no idea what I would do myself back at the campsite for rest of the night but all I wanted to do was relax.  The thought of staying in a hotel crossed my mind again and I called a few places to see if I could find a decent rate.  Although Sitka Hotel doesn't normally allow dogs, they let me stay for $110.  It was the best I could do.  What I got for it was a dumpy smoking room (because of the dog) and somewhere in the hotel people started partying and woke me up in the middle of the night.  I had to call front desk to complain.  I was almost better off camping.  Definitely better value. 

On my last morning in Sitka I finally got some sunshine.  What a bit difference it makes on your mood.  As if the fresh and crisp air wasn't enough, the sun being just makes it that much better being outdoors.  I went around downtown again to retake some photos.  Then I took Millie for a walk, packed up my camping gear, had lunch, and headed over to the ferry.  I had a good nap on the ferry, and relaxed by reading a book.  It was a great way to end the weekend.

Ten Reasons Why Ferries Are Better Than Planes

I've now had an opportunity to go on a ferry couple of times to and from Juneau.  I must say that it has been a fairly pleasant experience, unlike flying, which I hate with a passion.  I've been hoping for more alternatives to flying, and in Southeast Alaska, the ferries are it.  Here are my ten reasons why taking a ferry is so much better than flying:

10.  There is plenty of legroom

There's about 2 feet of legroom in front of you.  I could almost stick my legs out straight.  The seats are also wide enough I can prop my legs up on it.  The seats on the ferries are a lot wider, and most rows have only 2 seats next to each other so there aren't many 'middle' seats.

9.   The windows are much bigger

Pretty much the entire cabin area is wall to wall window, so you have a great view of the beautiful scenery.  It's like being on a cruise but for cheaper.  If you're lucky, you may also spot some whales or dolphins too.

8.  The food is much better

Although food isn't included in the trip, you have an opportunity to buy it at the snack shop or cafeteria.  On long haul trips, it's cooked right on the boat so you get a proper hot meal - not something that looks and taste like a cheap microwave meal.


7.  You can take your car with you

No need to rent a car at the other end because you can bring your car with you on most ferries.  Plus, the AMHS ferries often offer 'driver goes free' discounts, so it may not cost much more than if you went without your car. 

 
6.  You can bring your pet with you

Although you have to leave your pet in your car or in a crate on the car deck, I think your pets are much more safer and comfortable than in the cargo area of an airliner.  There's plenty of ventilation, and in the winter, the heat from the engine will keep the car deck at a reasonable temperature.

5.  There's no security hassle

There's a few restrictions on firearms and hazmats, but for the most part, there's no serious screening of passenger baggage.  So no x-rays and baggage search, and the long lines that go with it.  On the long haul ferry, there was a bomb sniffing dog running around the vehicles on the loading area so there is some security, but none that you have to be involved in.

4.  No worries about falling out of the sky and crashing to your death

Although flying is supposed to be relatively safe, there's enough stories about plane crashes to worry me.  I'm not a huge fan of turbulence either.  If you're like me, you'd be much more comfortable on a ferry.  It's also not very likely you'll get seasick either because most of the trips are usually on the inside passage where the waves aren't so big.

3.  Clean and roomy bathrooms

You don't have to try to squeeze into a compartment the size of a linen closet to do your business.  There are proper men and women's segregated bathrooms with proper toilet stalls, sinks, hand towels, and trash bins.  There are even showers on the long haul ferry.

2.  You can rent a cabin

If you are on a long trip, you can rent a cabin for the duration of the trip.  This will assure you a comfortable rest and some privacy during the trip.  Some cabins also come with full facilities - toilet, shower, and sink.

1.  No worries about lost luggage

There are only so many places your luggage can go at the ferry terminal so it is not very likely that your luggage will get lost.  You can also choose to take your own luggage on and off the ferry so you always know where it is. 


In this age where there's so much to complain about regarding the airline industry, I can find very little to complain about for the ferries.  The downside, of course, is that it takes a little longer.  However, because it is so comfortable, I would almost rather spent 5 hours on a ferry than an hour on a plane.  It's actually relaxing.  You can sleep, read a book, or watch the scenery.  On the long haul ferries there are movies to watch and a bar to go to.  Since you can walk around easily on the ferry, you can also meet new people easily and talk to them without having to shout over jet engine noise.  If I could ferry everywhere I would.  Give it a try if you have the opportunity.

Point Bridget State Park

I'm not sure how true it is, but I heard from a friend that the cruise ship passengers get 10-12 hours in Juneau on their tour of Alaska's Inside Passage (South East Alaska).  There's no way anyone can appreciate the full beauty that Juneau offers in that time.  If you're encouraged to do the typical touris thing, you'll probably end up walking around downtown, catch the tour bus to Mendenhall Glacier, and take the tram ride up Mount Roberts.  You probably don't even hear of places like Point Bridget State Park, which is amazing, because I didn't even know anything about it until I went this weekend. 

The trailhead begins at Mile 39 on Glacier Hwy (aka Egan Drive).  It's about a 3 mile trek through rainforests and meadows to the point closest to the water.  On the way we saw a cute cabin that is available for public use (must reserve).  It'd almost be a great place to stay if it weren't all the hikers that will pass by.  The views all around on the trail were quite fantastic but once at the end you had a panoramic view of the water and the mountains.  Combined with the awesome weather we had yesterday, it was just a gorgeous place to be on a gorgeous day.  We stopped a bit here to grab a bite to eat and just enjoy the view.  Using our binoculars, we could see orcas and sea lions out in the water. 

After a little break, we headed up another half mile to Blue Mussel Cabin.  Not as many people come all the way to the end, so it was a very peaceful place to be.  It was very tempting to just lay down across the picnic table for a nap after the long walk there. 

The trip out to Blue Mussel Cabin and back was 7 miles.  There is an option to loop around back to Glacier Hwy (but not back to the same parking lot), and there are some lakes along that route.  Perhaps next time I will try that route.  Oh, just a little warning about the trail - it's quite wet and muddy in many places.  You definitely need waterproof shoes that go above your ankle.  If you have ExtraTufs (Alaskan rainboots), even better.

The Cruise Ships Are Here!

Downtown Juneau

The first set of cruise ships arrived in Juneau this weekend.  With the tourists, the whole of downtown Juneau came to life.  There are people everywhere and all of the sudden there are shops I didn't even know existed.  It was a great weekend weather wise, too, for the season start.  It had been on the rainy side lately so the sun was a welcome change.

Waterfall near Mendenhall Glacier

Since my last post on Windfall Lake Trail, I had been on several hikes.  Most were my usual favorites: Boy Scout/Crow Point Trail, Airport Dike Trail, Rainforest Trail, and the Mendenhall Glacier area.  I did do a few new ones, too.  One was the Mt Roberts Trail.  I had a friend in town from Japan last week (it was Golden Week there), and since nothing was quite open yet for the tourists, most of the activities had to involve hiking.  The tram to the top wasn't open yet either, so I thought it would be nice if we could hike up there for a view.  I wasn't certain of the conditions, but we went anyways and found it to be about as bad as I thought, but not bad enough to turn around.  We got at least to where the tram was, after trudging through muddy and icy conditions.  It will be at least another month or so before the snow up there clears for better conditions to go further.  Similarly, the Perseverence Trail I did this weekend wasn't quite cleared of snow either.  It is actually a fairly level hike, but about a mile or so in, we started hitting snow.  We hiked through snow for about a mile, and some parts were thigh deep.  As we were stepping in spots we hoped was packed snow, we often sunk in.  This made the hike difficult so we turned around before reaching the end of the trail.  The trail will still be there once summer hits.

Creek along Perseverence Trail

Mt Roberts Tram

After hiking Perseverence Trail, I went up the tram since it was Juneau Appreciation Day on Saturday and the ride was only $8 (normally it's $27).  Although I had been up there already, it was nice out so I thought I'd go up there again and have something to eat after the hike. 

I'm looking forward to summer a lot.  It has been a long winter.  I can see green grass growing and flowers budding here and there.  The change in season keeps things interesting even when I do the same hikes over and over again.  With warmer weather I am also starting to see more wildlife around.   So far they are mostly birds.  I've seen a few Eagles already.  I have yet to see a bear or mountain goats though.  Shouldn't be long now though before things get more interesting. The salmon will start running, bears will be out, and maybe I'll get to see a whale or two.  Come on summer!!