Saturday, January 19, 2013

Top 10 Things Left Undone

I debated for a long time whether I should leave Alaska because there were things I wanted to do here that I haven't done yet.  I think I packed in quite a bit in two years, but with weather often being bad, it was hard to do much more than I did.  Here are the top 10 things I may have to come back to Alaska for:

1.  Chilkoot Trail

The breath taking views of the drive over White Pass this past fall inspired me to look into doing the Chilkoot Trail.  I was aiming to do this 4-5 day hike this coming August, but now that I am leaving Alaska, I'm not so sure I want to come back so soon.

2.  Aurora Viewing

Although Juneau does get the occasional aurora borealis, I was not so lucky to see any from my downtown home.  I did try once to go up to Chena Hot Springs but a weather cancellation of our flight led to cancellation of the whole trip.

3.  Glacier Bay National Park

The Glacier Bay National Park was a hop, skip, and a jump from Juneau; yet I did not make it.  I went on a glacier cruise of the Prince William Sound and the Tracy Arm fjord cruise in 2012, so I was putting Glacier Bay off for another year.

4.  Fishing

I was planning on getting into it last summer but it was such a crappy summer I couldn't get motivated.  I could've fished off shore, in my friend's boat, or on an organized fishing trip.  I am in the prime state for fishing and I didn't go at all (except for the one time a friend let me cast his line).

5.  Polar Bear Viewing

Well, this wasn't for lack of trying.  A big reason why I went to Barrow back in May was because I was hoping to see polar bears in the wild.  Didn't see any though....

6.  More Hikes

There are some hikes in Juneau I didn't get around to, but there were a lot more I want to do in Central Alaska.  The road trip I did in May covered a lot of ground in a short period of time, so it only gave me a taste of the various places we stopped in.  I think I got most of the 'sights' in, but there were so many places where I would have loved to spend more time and do some hikes.

7.  Katmai National Park

Katmai National Park is known as one of the best places for brown bear viewing in the world.  I saw a few brown bears in Denali, but seeing a bunch all at once would be neat too.

8.  Drive from Haines to Whitehorse

Most people do the Haines-Whitehorse-Skagway triangle but I ended up doing a Skagway to Whitehorse round trip.  It was a beautiful drive, but I hear the drive from Haines is also beautiful.

9.  Train Rides

The train rides in Alaska boasts wonderful views.  White Pass & Yukon Route Summit Excursion and the Aurora Winter Train, where two I had wanted to do.

10.  More Cabin stays

Although the hike to Eagle Glacier was dreadful, I really enjoyed our stay at the cabin there.  I tried to book another cabin weekend but that got washed out by a down pour.  I didn't get around to booking anymore cabin stays so I didn't get my fill of it while here.

Top 10 Hikes in Juneau

If you've been keeping up with my posts, you'll see that most of them is about a hike or a walk I did.  I love getting out for fresh air and nice views, and Juneau is a wonderful place to do this (when weather cooperates).  Especially now that I have Millie, hiking is a great way to spend time with her and get her the exercise she and I needs.  I knew Juneau had a lot of trails right in town, so I was really excited when I first got here I told my supervisor at the time that I wasn't leaving until I hiked them all.  His response was, "Great, you'll be here a while then!"  Well, I didn't get around to hiking them all.  (Fortunately that supervisor is no longer working here to call me out on it.)  I haven't done Lemon Creek, Herbert Glacier, Mount Juneau, Mount Jumbo, Auke Nu, Spaulding Meadow, and probably some others.  I'm still hoping I might get Herbert Glacier or Auke Nu trail in before I leave, but we shall see.  Of the hikes (trails with decent elevation gain) that I have done, here are my summertime favorites, in order.

1.  Granite Creek 

This was the most beautiful hike in my opinion.  I was quite disappointed that excessive snow and cool summer prevented people from hiking it this summer.  If I ever come back to Juneau in late summer or early fall and can only do one hike, this would be the one.  If you like waterfalls, this one is for you.

2.  Eagle Crest

Although the trail is quite steep (bring poles) to the top of Eagle Crest (a downhill ski area in winter), the hike is easy since it's on a service road.  At the top of the lift you can look down on Juneau, or you can continue on back to get a view of the other side of Douglas Island, e.g. Admiralty.  I'd say this hike probably has the best water views.

3.  West Glacier

This is a nice hike in the woods with the occasional break for a view overlooking Mendenhall lake.  At the very end though, you get an awesome view overlooking the Juneau icefield.  Definitely a unique view so if you're not planning on doing a Glacier hike, at least do this one.

4.  Mount Roberts

This hike would rank higher if the first hour and half wasn't so boring.  Once you get to the top of the tram though, you start getting really nice views of the channel and the surrounds.  If you don't have a dog with you, I recommend taking the tram up and hike from there to cut out the boring muddy bits.

5.  Salmon Creek

I used to do the lower half of the trail to the power house all of the time.  This was actually probably my favorite short hike that I tried to do on a regular basis since it's on a service road and it was a good length to do even on a weeknight.  If you have more time though, the rest of the trail is also nice with a view of the reservoir at the end.

6.  East Glacier

This is also another great 'short' hike when you don't have too much time to spare.  The trail is mostly in the woods, but it's a good one for moderate exercise.

7.  Eagle Glacier

Even though the hike was a disaster, there's a variety of scenery here and a view of a glacier at the end.  People seem to recommend doing this in winter when snow is packed because the trail can be muddy in the summer.  After our experience pot holing the whole way, I can't recommend going in Spring.

8.  Perseverance

This trail is popular with locals and tourists alike, probably because it's fairly easy and a really nice trail.  It's not high on my list though because I worry too much about Millie when on this trail.  If it's not the cliff edge or the porcupines or bears, it's the fast flowing stream that ends in a huge waterfall that scares me.  She jumped into the stream once and got swept downstream a bit before she managed to get out.

9.  Dan Moller

There are really no bad trails in Juneau as it's pretty almost everywhere.  Dan Moller trail takes you through the woods and the bogs to a nice cabin up top.  I'm not a fan of planks, especially when wet, so I recommend going on a dry day.

10.  Peterson Lake

I struggled with this one a bit because it was soooooooo muddy.  I still enjoyed the hike though and the view up top is nice with the huge lake.  There's also a cabin up there so it might be nice to book it for a night or two and make a weekend of it.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

My View On Gun Control

"A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed." - The Second Amendment

In light of all the recent mass shootings, the government is now considering new gun laws and many conservatives, some of my friends included, has become very vocal against gun control.  Some even burst out in rage over it (e.g. Alex Jones).  I support gun control though, and polls show most Americans also support reasonable gun legislation.  Yet, I don't hear their support for gun control as much as I hear those of the loud minority supporting gun rights.  I don't blame people for not wanting to get into politics, as I don't particularly enjoy these debates either.  I care though, and I want my voice to be heard.  I do not want to be the silent majority anymore.  So this blog is about my thoughts on various arguments against gun control:  

It's a Constitutional right.

For starters, the Constitution is open to interpretation and I have yet to hear a detailed interpretation on it from the Supreme Court.  The Constitution does not say you are entitled to any weapon or that you should not have to do background check or register guns you own.  The Second Amendment even says "a well regulated militia", which could be interpreted to mean some oversight is actually quite within the Constitutional boundaries.  The Second Amendment also says the militia is "necessary to the security of a free State." This sounds more to me like it gives our country the right to have military power to defend ourselves from our countries.  Even if that's now how some people interpret it, the Constitution can be amended if we the people wanted.  If you have no other good reason than the Constitution for your sense of entitlement to own or carry guns, then you are just a big kid crying over the possibility of getting your toy taken away.  

We have to defend ourselves from the government tyranny.

I could understand this if we lived in a place like Iran or North Korea, or if we were back in 1776.  I know we all have a hard time trusting the politicians to do the right thing but we have processes in place that allow us to deal with it in more peaceful ways.  If you're unhappy with your politician, you can vote them out.  You can also run for office yourself.  Are you afraid that our government would turn against its citizens?  This sounds like conspiracy theory to me and it implies people in our military would oblige them.  Our men and women in armed forces uniforms are believers in our freedom and our way of life.  I find it very difficult to think that they would turn their weapons on their own people.

We have a right to protect our homes.

No one would argue you have the right to self-defense and protection of your property.  Just remember there are potential consequences of gun ownership.  I have an extended family member who committed suicide with a gun.  I also know a child who was killed in an accidental shooting in his own house.  Own one if you really want, but be sure to get responsible owner and firearms training.  Also, remember that preventing an intrusion in the first place may go a long way in keeping your home protected.  Keep your doors locked, set alarms on entry points, and don't open the door to strangers.  Even if you had a gun in the house, you may not get to it fast enough or have the ability to act under duress.

National background checks are intrusion on our privacy.

Background checks are routinely done to verify personal data for many reasons.  We use them to screen potential renters, nannies, doctors, potential employees, etc. for any information that may impact your decision. Banks often do financial background checks to determine credit worthiness before approving loans.  Insurers may verify your health records during their underwriting process.  So why is a national background check so reprehensible when it comes to owning guns?  A background check could help keep people with a history of violence or mental illness from obtaining weapons illegally.

Criminals will find ways to get guns illegally anyways.

So we have to make it easy for them?  There is a difference between someone who is determined to go shoot people and someone who will shoot people just because they can.  If a person had to jump through hoops to obtain guns they may think twice about the thought of shooting someone.

Rocks can be used as weapons.  Should we ban them too?

Every analogy I've heard compares apples to oranges.  Guns were designed to kill, and some were designed to kill many people.  Most proponents of gun control are most concerned with the latter.

We should use harsher punishment instead to deter gun violence.

Harsher punishment would probably help but is only one means to an end.  Having multiple forms of deterrence increases the likelihood decreasing gun violence.

It's the culture of violence that's the problem.

Maybe this country's obsession with guns created the culture of violence.  Could be the other way around but who's to say what came first, chicken or the egg?  Regardless, many people are supportive of reducing the culture of violence and that is certainly worth pursuing.  However, risk mitigation is not done through addressing one risk factor, but by addressing as many as possible.

It's the people who kill, not guns.

When it comes to gun violence, it is people with guns that kill.  Let's not forget guns are part of the equation. The whole exercise on gun debate is about trying to prevent people from killing with guns.  We want to keep guns out of the hands of the wrong people so help us come up with the solutions instead of passing the buck all the time and fighting every step of the way.

We have to address mental illness.

Yes, we do.  Some understandably are concerned that the discussion of mental illness will be forgotten with all the debate on gun control.  Our country does need to do more to help people with mental illness and the recent shootings have highlighted that.  It's not just the mentally ill who kills with guns though.  Some kill with guns out of rage and some by accident.  

Some of the newer assault weapons make my hunting easier.

Second Amendment does not protect anyone's right to making their sport more enjoyable or easier.

It infringes on personal liberties if I can't have certain types of guns.

We all forgo our personal liberties on a daily basis.  I don't want to walk my dog on a leash but I do for the sake of others when required or appropriate.  Some nudists might complain that having to wear clothes in public infringes on their personal liberties.  No one ever really gets to do everything they want and there are good reasons for it.  Americans unfortunately seem to have this culture of self-righteousness and disregard of what's better for the larger group.  They have this delusion that their successes were built on their own and they have to answer to no one.  I'd like to see these people go find an island to live on with no contact to outside world, and let us know how much they can do on their own.

What the Obama Administration is considering won't work.

Well, at this point they are just considering things.  If there are flaws in their proposals let's address them constructively.  Let's use facts, logic, and reason to collectively come up with a solution rather than let emotions and sense of entitlement to guns dictate our actions.  Our biggest obstacle to coming up with a solution are people who are obsessed with guns and their unwillingness to allow any restrictions on them.  High-capacity magazines ban, national database for background checks, and registration requirements all sound good to me.  I don't think I've heard yet how they will control secondary markets of weapons, but I have heard the need to invest in law enforcement being mentioned.  What has the NRA or other gun advocates done to reduce gun violence?

We should arm our teachers with guns.

Our already underpaid teachers should be free to focus their efforts on educating our children.  Let's not distract them by encouraging them to take up firearms and training.  Some are doing it on their own accord for fear of their lives, and that's fine.  It would be unfortunate though if the quality of education in this country suffers anymore than it already has.

We should post armed guards at schools.

Let's not forget an armed law enforcement officer at Columbine could not stop the shootings there.  Virginia Tech also had its own police department but that did not stop the tragedy there either.   Also, I don't want to see our schools, hospitals, and churches to turn into Fort Knox.

If more people carried someone could stop a shooter on a killing spree.

Maybe some people would feel safer if more law abiding citizens carry.  I, for one, would be more uncomfortable if more people started carrying.  Law abiding citizens they may be, but there's no guarantee the average Joe would be a good shot.  I'd be more concerned about getting caught in crossfire.  There are also enough people with bad tempers out there and a simple conflict could trigger rage shooting.  No amount of training is going to make everyone a good shot.  Leave the concealed carry to trained enthusiasts or professionals.

More guns is the solution.

For every other vice; such as tobacco, alcohol, junk food, etc.; we encourage people to consume less of it, or at the very least consume in moderation.  Somehow though, the NRA think this logic should not apply to guns and more people should own and carry guns.  Of course the NRA would think this because it is self-serving.  Just as gun advocates fear what would happen if people didn't have the right to bear arms, others fear more guns will lead to more shooting.  The answer is not all or nothing here.  We should aim to strike a balance and have the right amount of firearms out there.

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Well, I suppose I could go on and on but I probably got my point of view across.  I know there are people who disagree and will have their own counter arguments.  I'm not here to debate though, since I've done enough of it already and don't think I will change my mind.  I don't expect to change the minds of some people who are against gun control either.  Maybe the opinion of one person doesn't matter, but the opinion of many do.  The gun advocates are constantly making their voices heard.  I want to encourage others who feel the same way to do so too.  


Thursday, January 3, 2013

Top 10 Things I Will Miss About Juneau

1.  Off-leash Dog Walking

Eagle Crest HikeThe number one thing that I will miss most about Juneau is being able to walk Millie off-leash on trails.  Juneau is a very dog-friendly town and most people are used to dogs running around free.  The entire town is practically a large dog park.  It is heaven for dogs.  Watching Millie running around having fun makes my walks and hikes more enjoyable.  It also lets her release more of that energy in her so that she might be more calm at night.  

2.  Fresh Air

On my most recent trip home to Virginia, I distinctly noticed the smell of car exhaust and pollution when I tried to go for a jog and thought, "ugh".  Breathing clean air is like drinking clean water.  It's nice.  I also had a lot less problems with allergies here, and I got sick less often.  Not sure if it's related, but I bet the fresh air helps.

3.  Numerous Trails

Dan Moller TrailOver the course of the years my interest in hiking grew, and I've always dreamed of living somewhere where I can hike all the time.  Well, this place let me tick that off of my bucket list.  There are many trails here of varying lengths and difficulty, all within a 30-40 minute drive, most within 5 or walking distance.  The trails can at times be muddy and weather isn't always cooperative, but I've had some of my best hikes here when conditions are good.  (I will try to do post on my favorite trails soon.)

4.  Low Population

There are about 30,000 people living in Juneau.  This means that there's hardly any traffic, lines, or crowds to contend with on a regular basis.  Having only ever lived in big cities, I appreciated this a whole lot.  I will miss it when I move back to Virginia. 

5.  Glaciers

Mendenhall GlacierThere aren't any glaciers on the East Coast, so having Mendenhall Glacier right in your town that you can drive up to see is really neat.  I never tired of visiting it.  There are also a number of hiking trails in the area such as the East Glacier Trail and West Glacier Trail.  If you're up for a fairly long hike, there are also Herbert Glacier and Eagle glacier.

6.  Waterfalls

Tracy Arm Fjord CruiseSince Juneau sits in the middle of a rainforest, there is no shortage of waterfalls here.  A lot of the trails in Juneau have some sort of a waterfall along the way.  Probably the largest and most accessible is Nugget falls right next to Mendenhall Glacier.  Granite Creek is also a great trail for lots of waterfalls.  You will also see lots of waterfalls in the Tracy Arm Fjords, though you'll need a boat or go on a day tour.

7.  Snow

Mendenhall Glacier Area
Alaska gets quite a bit of snow as you can imagine, and it's a winter wonderland here when it does.  Walking in, driving in, and shoveling snow isn't fun, but snowshoe, skiing, and snowboarding is!  If you're lucky enough to have a snowmobile you can do that here too.  It also makes everything really beautiful.

8.  Cabins

There are a lot of Forest Service and State cabins all over Alaska.  Juneau has its fair share of them, and some accessible by hiking.  These cabins let you stay out in the wilderness and relax.  I only stayed in a cabin once (a Forest Service one), but I have visited a few on my hikes.  All were really nice cabins and a great place to warm up or have lunch while on a hike.  

9.  Long Summer Days

On the longest day of the year, Juneau gets about 18 hours of day light.  There's no worrying about getting back from a hike before dark, and you can still do nice long walks in the evening after work.  Another thing I like about the summers here is that it's not so hot.  Not looking forward to 90 degrees summer in Virginia....

10.  Ferries

Don't spend thousands of dollars on an Alaska cruise.  If you want to see the Inside Passage, I highly recommend taking a trip on the Alaska Marine Highway System.  It's much cheaper and the views are the same.  They're also quite comfy and pleasant to travel.  You can even take your car and pets onto the ferries.  See also my post on Ten Reasons Why Ferries Are Better Than Planes.



Honorable Mentions

Alaska Airlines

Alaska Airlines became my favorite US airline after moving to Alaska.  They're the only airline in and out of Juneau, but I didn't mind it so much.  Yeah, the prices were slightly higher on the airline, but I thought some of the perks they offered were pretty good.  If you're an Alaska resident, you can become a Club 49 member and not pay any baggage fee for the first two luggage.  Since going anywhere from Alaska is a long ways away, you can also rack up mileage easily by sticking to the airline.  You can earn even more miles by getting their credit card.  The goal to MVP (first elite status) is only 20,000 miles so easily achievable.  You can also fly one way within in Alaska for only 7,500 miles.

My Office

It's not a Juneau thing, but it is something I will miss.  I had it pretty good in terms of my office here.  My commute was a 3 block walk.  I also had my own office with a beautiful view of the channel.  (I saw several nice sunrises from office window.)  I won't get either in my next job, and it's not likely I will in any future jobs.

Dressing Like a Bum

You don't see many (or any) people in Juneau trying to make a fashion statement.  Given the wet, yucky weather here, people tend to dress practically.  This usually means something waterproof with Extra Tufs (Alaskan wellies).  Attire in the office can be described as "Alaskan casual", and I wore jeans & boots to work just about every day.  With my primary activity here being walking or hiking, my weekend attire was always something comfortable too.  I've never been one to dress too nicely, so it was nice not having to feel self-conscious.  I could walk into a restaurant with hat hair and not worry about what other people think since there's bound to be someone else with the same.

Saving Money

Although the cost of living is high here, I didn't really have anything to spend it on here so I was able to save a bit.  It's not like there's a lot of restaurants to go eat out at or bunch of places to shop.  Money really only got spent on necessities here.  Being able to dress very casually here also saved me money since I didn't have to buy any fancy clothes.  Alaska also has a really high COLA, which I will miss dearly....


Wednesday, January 2, 2013

Top 10 Things I Won't Miss About Juneau

My adventure in Alaska didn't come without a price.  Here are the top 10 things about living here that I didn't like:

1.  Rain

When I first arrived in Juneau in February 2011, it was all sun and blue skies.  It eventually started raining here and there, and after August 2011, it didn't stop raining.  I'm not kidding.  I think it rained every day in August that year, most of the days Sep-Nov.  It rained all of December 2011, and most of January 2012.  It wasn't a good Spring in 2012 and the summer sucked as well.  It wasn't until later in the summer this year and the fall when we started seeing more clear skies.  By then though, summer was over.  There's lots to do outdoors here, but a rain literally puts a damper on your plans.  I've gotten used to walking Millie in the rain, but it doesn't really encourage you to get out and do long hikes.  Not to mention it's depressing....

2.  Ice

This is Alaska so naturally you get a lot of snow and cold weather.  The climate in Juneau is fairly temperate for Alaska though, so there are warm days that melt the snow, and when it gets cold again, it all turns to ice.  The roads and sidewalks often turn into one big skating rink.  While I'm fortunate that I have a short walk to work, it's not easy walking to work on ice.  Wearing snow trax is recommended for bad days.  Oh, and if it's not ice, it's a big slush of snow and runoff so wellies are handy here too.

3.  Housing Situation

Everything is expensive in Alaska, and housing especially so in Juneau.  For a dog friendly town, it is especially difficult to find a place to rent if you have a dog.  I got lucky that I found a 3BR/2BA place with a fenced yard close to work, but it wasn't without a price.  Rent was an arm and a leg, and it was an old house with several problems.  It's drafty so oil bill this winter is so far running quite high too.

4.  Isolation

There are no roads going in and out of Juneau so you're only way in or out is by ferry or air.  The only connecting airports you can get to from Juneau is Seattle and Anchorage, and you can get there only on Alaska Air.  While Alaska Air is a nice airline, it's not cheap to get out.  A flight to Seattle will run you about $600 unless you find a deal (they do have 'em often).  The good news is you can rack up miles easily since getting anywhere is a long flight.

5.  Lack of Social Life

I found it really difficult to make friends in Juneau.  My next door neighbor hosts a ladies night every month, but after two months of hearing these ladies talk about nothing but their kids, I got tired of going to them.  Two of the three people I hung out with the most I met on the ferry coming here.  The third I met at work.  This isn't to say I didn't have opportunities to get out and do more or make new friends, but it's definitely been slow going, and it was harder for me to want to get out and about in crappy weather.

6.  Lack of Dining Options

It seems every other restaurant here is a Chinese restaurant.  There's no real Japanese restaurant and the only fast food choices in town is 1 McDonald's and 2 Subways.  I don't like Subways.  There's couple of Mexican places, a popular Thai place, couple of seafood places, and some others.  After a while you get sick of eating the same food all the time.

7.  Mud

Since it rains so much in Juneau, the trails here are often muddy.  Waterproof hiking boots are a must, and some even hike in Extra Tufs (Alaskan wellies).  I need my ankle and arch support so I stuck with boots, but it was definitely hard and not fun trying to navigate around deep muddy areas that were common on the trails.

8.  Cold Temperatures

Duh... you live in Alaska so it's going to be cold.  Well, what I didn't expect was for my house to be so darn cold.  With thermostat set to 64 on average and the temperature in the house actually hovering a bit lower than that, the cold gets old.  I usually feel warmer when I'm outdoors bundled up and walking the dog.  Yeah, cranking up the thermostat helps, as does a space heater.  But did I mention what my oil bill was last month?

9.  Berms

I have street parking and whenever it snows I have to dig my car out.  That wouldn't be so bad on its own but when the snow plows come through, they often leave a berm of snow right up against the cars parked on the street.  It's a good work out, but I'm just not cut out for it and often end up with back pain :(

10.  Wild Animals

I love hiking, but it's not so nice having to hike while worrying about whether there's going to be a bear around the next corner.  Bears are often seen running down the street in my neighborhood too.  Then there are the porcupines Millie have had a few encounters with.  And the wolves... I hear they are making a come back up near the Salmon Creek Reservoir.







Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Happy New Year 2013!

Well, another year gone and boy am I glad because I have high hopes for 2013.  I was recently offered couple of jobs back in Virginia.  After all of the debating I did this past year on whether I really do want to move back, I finally decided that I do.  It helped that the job I took was about as good as it could get.  For starters, it's with the same agency (though different job), it's a promotion, it comes with relocation, and it's in an ideal location.  Most government jobs in Northern Virginia are either in DC or immediate surrounds of DC.  I didn't want to be that close to DC.  Where I'm going is actually really close to where I used to live, so I have many friends in the area.  It is also in the suburbs enough that it is more affordable and less congested.  I could probably afford a house with a yard for Millie. If I was ever going to take a job back there, this had to be it.

Although I will miss some things about Alaska, there's a lot I am looking forward to - shows, concerts, sunshine, more time with friends & family, traveling, etc.  I am really excited about moving back now!