Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Sitka, AK


When Memorial Day weekend approached, I felt as though I had to take advantage of the long weekend and go somewhere.  I couldn't go far on three days, so I decided on Sitka.  You can get to Sitka from Juneau in 4.5 hours on the fast ferry.  It leaves at 0800 from Juneau, arrives at 1230 in Sitka, departs Sitka at 1330 and arrives in Juneau at 1800.  I left on a Saturday and came back Monday.

For this trip it was just me and Millie.  Brad got a job as a Security Officer and had to work every weekend in May.  I actually wanted to go sans doggie, but I couldn't leave her at home because Brad was working 10 hour days and she couldn't be left alone for that long.  Putting her in a kennel raised so many other issues that it seemed almost easier to just bring her with me.  Finding pet-friendly lodging in Sitka is pretty tough tho.  There's hardly any hotels there that allow dogs, and the ones that do charge an arm and a leg.  Super 8 wanted something in the area of $150 a night.  Ridiculous.  So I opted for camping. 

I didn't make this decision to camp lightly.  I had a few concerns.  First, there was no way I could get the 3 man tent we had up by myself (I practiced).  Second, Sitka has grizzlies.  Third, it could be cold and rainy (forecast called for rain).  Fourth, Millie could tear down my tent.  And the list goes on....  Once at the Starrigavan Campsite though, I did manage to get help from the site host to put up the tent.  The host also informed me that there had not been any bear sightings there yet, so that was a relief.  The weather was a tad gloomy, but not so bad that it was a problem.  However, it did get pretty cold at night and I didn't dress warmly enough thinking it wouldn't get that much colder.  Millie must have thought it was cold too because she ended up sleeping on me or on my airmattress.  I spent most of the night curled up in a fetal position to stay warm, and also because I only had about two-thirds of a 28"x72" mattress.  My butt cheeks were a bit cramped from holding that position for so long.  I must've gotten some sleep though, because I woke up fairly refreshed. 

I had roughly 2 full days, most of which was overcast.  It didn't give me a good impression of Sitka, but I could see that it was about as beautiful as Juneau, in my opinion.  Most think Sitka is the most beautiful of all the Alaska towns, but I'm not so sure.  It does not support as much tourism though, which helps.  I also expected to see more Russian culture and architecture since it was previously a Russian colony and the purchase of Alaska from Russia took place here.  The town does embrace it's history, however.  Castle Hill gives some history about the exchange of land between Russia and US.  I didn't make it to the Sitka Historical museum but no doubt it does too. 

Another part of Sitka's history are the native Alaskans.  Little of their culture is left today after the arrival of Russians and Americans, but some of it can be seen at the Sheldon Jackson museum.  It's a peak into the life of an Eskimo.  The Sitka National Historical Park is the oldest National Park in Alaska, and it commemorates the largest conflict held between the Europeans and Native Alaskans.  There are a few trails around the park, and many totem poles.   

Sitka also offers many wildlife viewing opportunities.  There is a whale park from where you can view whales in October, November, and March.  The campground I stayed in had the Estuary Trail from which you could do bird watching.  Then there is the Alaska Raptor Center where hurt Eagles are cared for and trained to re-enter the wild.

In addition to the cultural attractions, there are some nice trails around Sitka.  Most are not very long, but are of moderate difficulty.  Since I had Millie with me, I had to spend most of my time outdoors and on the trails.  I was pleasantly surprised to see how well maintained the trails were compared to Juneau's, which are often muddy and wet.  I went on several trails - Thimbleberry/Heart Lake Trail, Forest & Muskegs Trail, Mosquito Cove Trail, and Herring Cove Trail.  Herring Cove Trail was my favorite since there are couple of nice waterfalls along the way. 

Since I did so much walking the first and second day there, I was pretty beat by the time 5pm came around on the 2nd day.  It felt a bit chillier then too, or maybe I was just tired.  In any case, I had no idea what I would do myself back at the campsite for rest of the night but all I wanted to do was relax.  The thought of staying in a hotel crossed my mind again and I called a few places to see if I could find a decent rate.  Although Sitka Hotel doesn't normally allow dogs, they let me stay for $110.  It was the best I could do.  What I got for it was a dumpy smoking room (because of the dog) and somewhere in the hotel people started partying and woke me up in the middle of the night.  I had to call front desk to complain.  I was almost better off camping.  Definitely better value. 


On my last morning in Sitka I finally got some sunshine.  What a bit difference it makes on your mood.  As if the fresh and crisp air wasn't enough, the sun being just makes it that much better being outdoors.  I went around downtown again to retake some photos.  Then I took Millie for a walk, packed up my camping gear, had lunch, and headed over to the ferry.  I had a good nap on the ferry, and relaxed by reading a book.  It was a great way to end the weekend.

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